I was out in downtown Long Beach when I finally stepped into the Hi-Lo Market on Ocean Boulevard. I’ve seen their Costa Mesa location before but had never been inside the Long Beach shop. Their tagline is simple. Drink Well. And the moment you walk in, you feel that they mean it. Quiet shelves. Good energy. A space that feels curated without being curated-at-you.
A woman at the counter greeted me as I came in. Friendly, not hovering. She let me drift for a minute before checking in to see if I needed help. That is when I asked the question I always ask in these little missions. Do you have a Sicilian wine?
Her name was Louisa. She nodded and led me straight to a bottle of Santa Tresa Frappato. Twenty one dollars. She talked about it the way people talk about a wine they actually enjoy. Light. Fresh. Earthy. A little wild in a good way. The kind of wine you chill and drink with food or without food. A wine that feels alive.
And Santa Tresa is exactly that kind of winery. They farm organically. They operate sustainably. They approach their land with curiosity, not ego. They have this quiet confidence that comes from knowing who they are and where they are rooted. The estate is led by Stefano Girelli, who was born in Trentino but carries a genuine reverence for Sicily. Him making wine there is almost a historical echo. A northerner who chooses the south. Someone who honors a place that is not his birthplace but has become his home. The wines reflect that respect. They are clean, expressive, and world class without ever trying to announce it.
Before I grabbed the bottle, I asked if Hi-Lo was new in the neighborhood. Louisa told me they have been here since before COVID. So not new at all. A fixture. She also mentioned their Costa Mesa shop and the Culver City location. Three shops. Same philosophy. Same calm energy. It all made sense.
Hi-Lo Market is a place for people who want wines with intention. Smaller producers. Organic leaners. Minimal intervention. Bottles chosen because someone cared. And if you want to explore a bit, they host a Sip and Shop on Saturdays. Long Beach through and through. Easy. Welcoming. Curious.
So here is the $30 moment. I walked in with an idea. I walked out with a $21 bottle of Frappato that is spending a little time in the fridge before meeting spicy pasta tonight.
Hi-Lo has the charm. Louisa has the touch. Santa Tresa has the soul.
Another bottle in my hand. Another reason to keep going.
